Showing posts with label Zamboanga. Show all posts

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Sta. Cruz..."Pink Island" of Zamboanga

Posted on Sunday, 3 August 2014



Sta. Cruz…”Pink Island” of Zamboanga
by Apolinario Villalobos

Sta. Cruz Island, noted for its pinkish beach is a mere fifteen minutes from Zamboanga City. Samals, Tausugs and Badjaos consider it a sacred island where they bury their dead in a small cemetery not far from the shores. The locals believe that the island is a live coral rock once under the sea and surfaced out of Basilan Strait. The pinkish color of the beach can be attributed to the granules of red corals that abound around the island and got mixed with the white sands.

According to a local legend, the big Santa Cruz Island and its twin island nearby were once desperate lovers, a Badjao and a Samal maiden who unfortunately belonged to two warring tribes. Having thought of no other way to escape, they took a narrow houseboat and paddled their way towards the raging sea. As the storm abated the following day, their parents searched for them to no avail. Instead, they found two islets connected to each other by a submerged land bridge.

The cemetery of the Badjaos, Samals and Tausugs communities on the island is conspicuous with the different markers made of stones and woods that indicate the gender or age of the one lying in state. The “okir” design dominates the different symbols on the markers. The carved image virtually represents the dead, so that it is easily known if it’s a boy, girl, old man or woman. Sometimes, even the cause of death is depicted.

As they believe that the spirit of the dead has to make a voyage to the “other world”, a carving representing a boat, a bird, horse or a crocodile is also added to the grave marker, to symbolize means of travel. The grave markers are composed of two parts, such as, the upright form known as the “sundok” and the rectangular frame on which the “sunduk” rests, called “kubul”. The “sunduk” may be simply carved or elaborately designed, depending on the fancy of the bereaved family. It does not necessarily represent the social status of the family. The “sunduk” represents the age and sex of the departed, hence, each grave marker is distinctively different from each other.

For the men, the “sunduk” is usually cylindrical with either a round or pointed top. Sometimes the marker takes the form of a man simply done, similar to that of a paper cutout. It usually rests on another carving in the form of an animal or just a simple box within the “kubul”.

For the women, the marker is flat and wide, sometimes with a leaf and scroll designs, or incised with the comb motif on top or bottom. It is directly set on the ground or board, while securely fixed to the “kubul”.

The “sunduk” for the adults is higher than that of the children’s. It is usually three feet high as compared to the six to fifteen inches high of that of the children.

Jult like the “sunduk”, the “kubul” may be simply or elaborately designed. The simplest form being the plain, rectangular frame of wood. The most elaborate ones are with scroll or leaf designs carved on the four sides and with okir or naga motif on the edges. The “kubul” may rest on top of a mound of earth and in the case of a particularly important person, a canopy or shed, usually of wood, is built over it.

There are some “kubul” over which are built concrete shed. Some are even painted with primary colors such as green, red, blue or just plain white. The same is also done to the “sunduk” on which a line from the Koran and the name of the dead are inscribed.

The Samal and the Badjao usually bury their dead within just one “kubul”. It is not unsual therefore, to see in their graveyards several “sunduk” within a “kubul”. As a custom, a white cloth is tied around the “sunduk” representing the dead for whom members of the family offer prayers. White flags that hang from the ceiling of the “kubul’s” canopy indicate that prayers have been said by the family members.

The “pink” Sta. Cruz  island has been the pride of Zamboanga aside from the vintas with their colorful sails. As a bit of caution, however, it is necessary to first check with local authorities if a trip to the island is planned by those who would like to visit Zamboanga.


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Zamboanga Exotica!

Posted on Thursday, 31 July 2014



Zamboanga Exotica!
By Apolinario Villalobos

The Subanon tribe, so called because of their affinity to rivers, were the first to discover the exotic and colorful Zamboanga, naming the place “Jambangan”, as they found the place profusely abloom with wild flowers.

What appeared, however, in the 16th century Spanish map of the Philippines, was “Samboangan” which means docking point. The Badjaos and Samals, sea-dwelling tribes added  the “Jambangan” to the confusion. “Samboangan”, however, was the official name given by the Spaniards to the place. Fortunately, the confusion was only for some time. Later on, the “Samboangan” which was first corrupted to “Sambuwanga”, became “Zamboanga” and finally, emerged as the official name of the city.

June 23, 1635 saw the elevation of Zamboanga into the status of a city. The day also saw Father Melchor de Vera, Jesuit priest-engineer laying the cornerstone for the construction of Fort Pilar which was originally named “Real Fuerza de San Jose”. In 1719, it became “Real Fuerza de Nuestra Seῆora del Pilar de Zaragosa”. During the American occupation in 1899, it was simply called “Fort Pilar”, a name which it still retains until today.

Many times, the city was attacked by pirates and foreign forces. In 1633, it was raided by Corralat and Tagal; in 1646, it was bombarded by the Dutch and by the British in 1798; in 1899, it was occupied by the Americans, and by the Japanese in March 1942; finally, recaptured by the Americans under the command of Major Gen. Jes. A. Doe in March 1945. The city, with the sprawling Pettit Barracks and Fort Pilar were turned over by the United States to the Philippine government in July 4, 1946.

Zamboanga was a “Spanish City” in Mindanao, a seat of Hispanic culture where the Catholic religion and the Spanish language made deep impressions. The local dialect called “chavacano” is a mixture of the unconjugated Spanish verbs and other regional dialects such as Ilonggo, Cebuano, and Tagalog. Most of the elder Zamboangueῆos, however, speak the conventional Spanish.

During the time of my visit, the city took pride in its three villages, the Campo Moslem, Taluksangay and Rio Hondo which were replete with typical local color and tradition. They provided picturesque background to the idly drifting vintas with their colorful sails. The Rio Hondo Village was a pet project of the government for the cultural uplift of the cultural communities. It was comprised of clusters of houses on stilts, and which were made of wooden shingles. However, during the short-lived clash between the MNLF and the government forces, the village was one of the areas that were deserted by their residents. The three villages were always mentioned in folk songs and poems composed by Filipinos and foreign writers, and tickled the imagination of the curious.

Also, during my visit, a Yakan settlement near the Ebenezer Bible School was flourishing at Calarian. The settlement became more colorful with the finished products conspicuously draped over bamboo poles to get the attention of passers- by and tourists. Practically, every family had several members who were involved in the weaving of the famed Yakan “malong” with colorful geometric designs.

Another popular landmark of the city is the Pasonanca Park which is five minutes from the downtown area. The park was the brainchild of Thomas Hanley who worked as a parksman during the administration of Gen. John Pershing. It was the first venue of the international Boy Scout Jamboree held in the Philippines. The vast hilly area covering the park is luxuriantly shaded with trees and gets alive with songbirds early in the morning.

It is suggested that an exploration of the market be made by visitors for their surprising discoveries such as antique brassware. In my case, it’s where I discovered a small stall selling brass items, among which I found a pair of candle holders which I was told, came from Jolo. I was surprised to find similar pair, later in an antique shop in Mabini (Manila), and the owner told me that the pair came from Visayas. I recalled then, stories about pirates from the south who pillaged Visayan towns during the Spanish time.  Some stalls sell items from Sabah and Malaysia, especially, Moslem apparel dominated by “batik” malong, and brass wares.

Southern exotic foods can be had at the market, the most popular of which is “curacha”, a coconut crab which the finicky would not even dare throw a glance because of its horrid appearance. Others are deep sea fish, crabs, and shells – practically, all cooked in coconut milk and turmeric.

It is unfortunate that the short-lived clash between the MNLF/Misuari faction and the government forces devastated some portions of the city. As if the onslaught was not enough, natural catastrophes such as flood and typhoon added their share of devastation to the city. Somehow, the local government is trying its best in the speeding up of the city’s rehabilitation to bring it back to its former glory as “ciudad Hermosa” of Mindanao.

In no time, the curious may need not be asked “…won’t you go, won’t you go to far Zamboanga?” because as of latest update, the city has almost finally recovered, except for the relocation of some families who still endure the rain and humidity in tents. Nevertheless, Zamboanga still remains the “ciudad Hermosa y exotica!”