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Intramuros: Magnificent Old Manila
Posted on Sunday 31 August 2014
Intramuros:
Magnificent Old Manila
By Apolinario Villalobos
For investors, especially, those who are
the optimistic type who see gold even underneath a hill of debris, the remnants
of Intramuros are an eyesore that should be leveled to give way to structures
that could ensure a fat financial return, say, a commercial complex. The
strategic position of this once Spanish glory, has made it more attractive to
this kind of scheme.
On the other hand, those who value culture
that is affected in a great extent by the past, see many reasons beyond the
understanding of an ordinary person, why the partly ruined once walled city has
to be reconstructed instead. This advocacy prevailed, so that a Presidential
Decree was issued on April 10, 1979 for the creation of the Intramuros
Administration which has been mandated for the restoration of the whole area.
The first Chairperson of the said agency was no less than the former First Lady
Imelda Marcos, and Jaime C. Laya as Action Officer. Management consultancy was
extended by Esperanza Bunag Gatbonton.
The agency lost no time in reconstructing
the Walled City, by building some new structures to house offices. As
Intramuros has been habituated for so many years by informal settlers, clusters
of makeshift homes had to be demolished.
Two guidelines were set for the
rehabilitation program: reconstruction that necessitates the rebuilding of the
Walled City, and the restoration of what could still be brought back to their
original forms with the use of the same materials, a very delicate job
requiring meticulous research and laboratory control of consistency.
Then, there’s the responsibility of
assessing the e4xisting structures, their chances of withstanding atmospheric
pollutants such as dust and carbon monoxide as well as natural calamities. The
understandably difficult reinforcement of the standing structures with the use
of available materials without altering their character and appearance is
another thing to consider. Not to forget also is the problem posed by its modification
in the form of electrification. There’s the question of where to install
writings in a very inconspicuous way.
Intramuros is a vast repository of
invaluable heritage. Within its confines are the two centuries-old churches,
the Manila Cathedral and San Agustin Church that contain images of saints,
painting, sculptures, religious vestment, and ancestral homes that contain
family heirlooms.
The Puerta de Isabel four-room museum
contains family heirlooms such as intricately-carved hardwood chests, furniture,
marble basin, images of saints, paintings, religious vestments, models of
colonial houses, enlarged pictures of the early Intramuros and even cannons.
The Intramuros project has been schemed to
be self-liquidating, so that hostels for students studying within the confine
of the walls were built, as well as, economy class hotels for tourists, antique
shops and restaurants.
The once walled city is trying to rise
again. But what was it during its glory days?
The walls were intended to fortify the Spanish
City of Manila which was developed from a tongue of land that extended out into
the bay. This was what Matin de Goiti and Juan de Salcedo saw in 1570 upon
their arrival from Panay. Guiding them past Mindoro and Balayan Bay was a
trader, a Christia convert from Manila who also acted as their interpreter. The
Spanish fleet consisting of a frigate, a junk and fifteen native boats sailed
past Mindoro and Balayan Bay until they reached the busy port of a palisaded
settlement.
Colonization was difficult but with the
help of the Cross, the Spaniards were later settled. The settlement was
followed by modification of Manila which affected even the natives’ way of
life. Pallisades at the mouth of the river were enlarged. A defensive wall
encircled the new settlement, improved by each succeeding governor-general.
The massive walls, built based on the
Spaniards’ foresight was tested in the years to come, when the settlement was
attacked by various forces. There was the notorious fleet of the Chinese pirate
Limahong, the Dutch, rebels from the Chinese parian outside the walls, and the
British. Each attack proved the formidability of some parts of the walls and
vulnerability of some. It came to pass then, that the walls which were began by
Legazpi himself in 1870, were improved by each succeeding governor-generals.
After so many years of improvement, the
walls became a sophisticated fortress, surrounded with moats, ramparts, gates,
bastions and lookout towers. Capping all these was the strict observance of
curfew hours, as the gates were closed at eleven in the evening and opened only
at dawn.
The sophistication of the walls was not
limited to the surrounding structures. Even the buildings within were required
to use non-combustible materials. Houses with thatched roofs went down. So that
in no time at all, roofs of tiles, became the fashionable style as dictated by
necessity. The Spaniards, likewise, used materials and methods familiar to them
but with some changes adaptable to the tropics. Massive foundations of adobe
gave strength to houses to withstand earthquakes. Convenient large windows made
use of translucent capiz shells, and wooden parts were dovetailed to prevent
splitting.
The Walled City was crammed with schools
run by religious people of different orders, churches, dormitories and shops
selling European items. It was an exclusive Spanish City, but there were times
when a Chinese trader or two, or a native servant were allowed to reside within
its confines.
Meanwhile, outside the Walled City, the
parian, bustled with commerce dominated by the Chinese. Foreign merchants still
came to sell their wares, some of which were patronized by Spaniards,
themselves.
As time passed, however, the wall of
exclusiveness was broken down, so that by the time the Americans came, the city
had grown well beyond the thick structures. Gone was the sophistication.
Development outside them was fast-paced and whatever left inside were the
churches and schools, as well as, convents. The mestizos together with the
friars were left to live with the somewhat deteriorating city.
Then, came the WWII in 1941 which flattened
the Walled City, leaving only the sheels of what has been the glory of Spanish
architecture. Some seventy-five percent of the walls withstood the bombings and
a few of them, still stood intact, complete with lookout towers. The
intricately beautiful gates of Fort Santiago and Sta. Lucia were rammed by
American tanks during the liberation. Practically, the beautifully landscaped
city was a mess when bombings ceased. It was sorry sight that greeted Manilans
when they went out of their shelters.
For a long time, this particular section of
a fast developing metropolis was neglected. Shanties mushroomed where mansions
once stood. One-storey box-type buildings took the place of once elegant
edifices. Big cargo vans and containers clogged its streets.
During its rehabilitation, the first to be
touched was the Fort Santiago. Trees were planted to shade its lanes, a
fountain was built and the cells were cleaned and converted into showcases of
vintage cars. Canteens were also put up to serve promenaders and piped-in music
system was installed. The fort was converted into a small park.
Other structures were reconstructed such as
the Puerta de Isabel which now houses a museum and the offices of the
Intramuros Administration. The San Agustin Church was restored to its once
exquisite form, together with the Manila Cathedral. Other structures, even the
privately-owned residences were rehabilitated in line with the plan to make the
area as a veritable touristic nook within the city of Manila.
Today, Intramuros proudly stands, almost
completely rehabilitated, except for some portions which are occupied by old
houses. Overall, the once Walled City is now regaining its lost glory.
From Intramuros, one can have a leisurely
walk to Fort Santiago, from which a jeepney can be taken for Luneta or Rizal
Park.
