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Zamboanga Exotica!
Posted on Thursday 31 July 2014
Zamboanga
Exotica!
By Apolinario Villalobos
The Subanon tribe, so called because of
their affinity to rivers, were the first to discover the exotic and colorful
Zamboanga, naming the place “Jambangan”, as they found the place profusely
abloom with wild flowers.
What appeared, however, in the 16th
century Spanish map of the Philippines, was “Samboangan” which means docking
point. The Badjaos and Samals, sea-dwelling tribes added the “Jambangan” to the confusion.
“Samboangan”, however, was the official name given by the Spaniards to the
place. Fortunately, the confusion was only for some time. Later on, the
“Samboangan” which was first corrupted to “Sambuwanga”, became “Zamboanga” and
finally, emerged as the official name of the city.
June 23, 1635 saw the elevation of
Zamboanga into the status of a city. The day also saw Father Melchor de Vera,
Jesuit priest-engineer laying the cornerstone for the construction of Fort
Pilar which was originally named “Real Fuerza de San Jose”. In 1719, it became
“Real Fuerza de Nuestra Seῆora del Pilar de Zaragosa”. During the
American occupation in 1899, it was simply called “Fort Pilar”, a name which it
still retains until today.
Many times, the city was attacked by
pirates and foreign forces. In 1633, it was raided by Corralat and Tagal; in
1646, it was bombarded by the Dutch and by the British in 1798; in 1899, it was
occupied by the Americans, and by the Japanese in March 1942; finally, recaptured
by the Americans under the command of Major Gen. Jes. A. Doe in March 1945. The
city, with the sprawling Pettit Barracks and Fort Pilar were turned over by the
United States to the Philippine government in July 4, 1946.
Zamboanga was a “Spanish City” in Mindanao,
a seat of Hispanic culture where the Catholic religion and the Spanish language
made deep impressions. The local dialect called “chavacano” is a mixture of the
unconjugated Spanish verbs and other regional dialects such as Ilonggo,
Cebuano, and Tagalog. Most of the elder Zamboangueῆos, however,
speak the conventional Spanish.
During the time of my visit, the city took
pride in its three villages, the Campo Moslem, Taluksangay and Rio Hondo which
were replete with typical local color and tradition. They provided picturesque
background to the idly drifting vintas with their colorful sails. The Rio Hondo
Village was a pet project of the government for the cultural uplift of the
cultural communities. It was comprised of clusters of houses on stilts, and
which were made of wooden shingles. However, during the short-lived clash
between the MNLF and the government forces, the village was one of the areas
that were deserted by their residents. The three villages were always mentioned
in folk songs and poems composed by Filipinos and foreign writers, and tickled
the imagination of the curious.
Also, during my visit, a Yakan settlement
near the Ebenezer Bible School was flourishing at Calarian. The settlement
became more colorful with the finished products conspicuously draped over
bamboo poles to get the attention of passers- by and tourists. Practically,
every family had several members who were involved in the weaving of the famed
Yakan “malong” with colorful geometric designs.
Another popular landmark of the city is the
Pasonanca Park which is five minutes from the downtown area. The park was the
brainchild of Thomas Hanley who worked as a parksman during the administration
of Gen. John Pershing. It was the first venue of the international Boy Scout
Jamboree held in the Philippines. The vast hilly area covering the park is luxuriantly
shaded with trees and gets alive with songbirds early in the morning.
It is suggested that an exploration of the
market be made by visitors for their surprising discoveries such as antique
brassware. In my case, it’s where I discovered a small stall selling brass
items, among which I found a pair of candle holders which I was told, came from
Jolo. I was surprised to find similar pair, later in an antique shop in Mabini
(Manila), and the owner told me that the pair came from Visayas. I recalled then,
stories about pirates from the south who pillaged Visayan towns during the
Spanish time. Some stalls sell items
from Sabah and Malaysia, especially, Moslem apparel dominated by “batik”
malong, and brass wares.
Southern exotic foods can be had at the
market, the most popular of which is “curacha”, a coconut crab which the
finicky would not even dare throw a glance because of its horrid appearance.
Others are deep sea fish, crabs, and shells – practically, all cooked in
coconut milk and turmeric.
It is unfortunate that the short-lived
clash between the MNLF/Misuari faction and the government forces devastated
some portions of the city. As if the onslaught was not enough, natural
catastrophes such as flood and typhoon added their share of devastation to the
city. Somehow, the local government is trying its best in the speeding up of
the city’s rehabilitation to bring it back to its former glory as “ciudad
Hermosa” of Mindanao.
In no time, the curious may need not be
asked “…won’t you go, won’t you go to far Zamboanga?” because as of latest
update, the city has almost finally recovered, except for the relocation of
some families who still endure the rain and humidity in tents. Nevertheless,
Zamboanga still remains the “ciudad Hermosa y exotica!”
