More on Albay…

by Apolinario Villalobos

According to the annals on the early Spanish exploration of the country, in 1567, a small contingent from the Spanish camp in Cebu explored the central waters of the archipelago. The small group was led by Mateo del Saz and Captain Martin de Goiti who stayed on the island of Masbad (Masbate).

Two years later, Luiz Enriquez de Guzman landed on a coastal village called Ibalon after exploring the islands of Tiago (Ticao) and Burias. In 1570, Andres de Ibarra traced the route of de Guzman but did something more monumental. He erected a chapel of bamboos and nipa leaves, the first ever to be built on the island of Luzon.

With Ibarra was Father Alonzo Gimenez, an Agustinian friar who was responsible for the conversion of the natives into Christianity. This made the Ibalons the first to be baptized on the island of Luzon. While this was happening, Juan de Salcedo sailed up the Bikol River until he reached a vast sprawling valley by the bank where he founded the village of Santiago which for the natives was known as Biong.

During the early days of the Spanish colonization, there were no distinct territorial boundaries among the provinces. Ibalon as a Spanish territory was not particularly delineated. However, the eastern side’s boundary was specifically indicated by the waters between it and Masbate. The only geographical division which Ibalon had was that which separated the eastern part from the peninsula. From Matnog to Caramoan, the area belonged to Partido de Ibalon, while those in the eastern part, belonged to Camarines.

The provincial name of Ibalon was changed to Albay in 1636 by virtue of a Spanish decree, followed by the clear definition of its territory in accordance with the order made by Governor General Narciso. Sorsogon and Catanduanes were likewise made as independent military districts.

A very tragic event deeply marked a page in the history of Albay. February 1, 1814, saw the eruption of Mt. Mayon, burying two towns, Cagsawa and Budiaw in the process while the rest of the surrounding towns were partially damaged. As a result of the eruption, so many relocations were made. Bulusan for instance, was rehabilitated on the other side of San Francisco River and is now called Guinobatan. Camalig on the other hand was reconstructed a little farther south from its former location. The older Albay, now known as Buinanwahan has become a part of Legazpi. As a background, the original town of Albay was established in 1843, while Daraga which was formerly known as Salcedo when established in 1818 had included Cagsawa.

Legazpi City, the provincial capital,  had its debut as the commercial hub of the peninsular region when it was opened to foreign marine in May 18, 1872 by virtue of a Royal Decree. With the opening of Legazpi to international shipping industry, its main product, abaca, has finally found a market outside the region, although, its reference within the international community is “manila hemp”.

Albay is generally mountainous and hilly. The whole area is also dotted with volcanoes with Mt. Mayon as the most imposing. Its majestic, almost perfect cone rises to 8,075 feet above sea level. Despite the province’s mountainous terrain, it has also a wide area of plains and valleys. Two-fifths of the entire province consists of this, with the plains of Central Albay as the most prominent. It stretches from Camalig to Libon and Polangui where it widens to meet the slopes and ranges of Bato and Buhi. Measuring about 42 kilometers in its full length, 23 kilometers at its narrowest span, the area is considered as the “bread basket” of Bicol Region.

Five navigable rivers crisscross the entire area of the province. These are the Baiza, Talisay, Maporong, Basong and Baloto. The headspring of the Baiza River begins at the tributaries in the northern slopes of Mt. Mayon and pours down to its final outlet at Malinao. Talisay River originates from Mt. Pantao joined by tributaries from Oas and Mt. Masaraga in Ligao. Naporong River flows out from the tributaries on the northern slopes of Mt. Masaraga, while Basong and Baloto rivers begin from headsprings in Central Albay but join at the vicinity of Mataguinting in Jovellar. As the last two rivers pass through Sorsogon, it becomes known by another name, Donsol.

Although, it is the majestic Mayon which has put Albay in the tourist map, there are other places around the province that play important roles in its popularity. Except for a few of these whose facilities are fully developed, the rest are yet to be improved. The northern coast of the province has Tiwi Geothermal area to offer. A plus is the nearby Naglagbong Lake which has spewed lava years ago. Other hot springs can be found in Camalig.

Manito which is about 41.5 kilometers from Legazpi City is endowed with several springs and waterfalls. The most popular are Inangmaharang, Geothermal Lake, Balubagon Boiling Lake and Dalipay Falls. On the other hand, Malinao, a coastal town near Tiwi, prides in its Palale Falls and Lagbanong Springs. It is some 34.1 kilometers from Legazpi City.

Jovellar is an unassuming inland town which could be reached over semi-rough road. This is a rice and abaca growing community whose hills hide an underground river called Naglaus and the Magtaginting Falls. The popular beaches near the city are Puro, Buhatan, Kalayukai, and Sogod.

Due to the topography of the province, its entire area is pockmarked with caves, some of which have protected the villagers during the early revolutions and the WWII. The most popular of these caves is Hoyop-Hoyopan in Camalig which is about 11.8 kilometers from Legazpi City. Its significance has been boosted by the discovery of archaeological remains that date back to 2,000 years ago. Among the finds are potteries, human bones and pieces of jewelry. As alleged by Dr. Solheim, noted archaeologist, the finds belonged to the Kalanay Complex which included the Visayas, classified under the early Iron Age of the Philippines from 200 BC to 900 AD. Hoyop-Hoyopan has four openings and each has its own big main chamber. The chambers are connected to each other by foot bridges and pathways. According to the local guide, during my visit, Fred Nieva, the inhabitants of Camalig crammed themselves inside the cave during the WWII. Other interesting caves are the del Rosario at Jovellar, Linao at Libon, and Minaroro at Rapu-Rapu.

Tabaco, aside from being noted for fancily -designed knives fashioned from discarded metal, is also known for furniture made from buri, rattan and wood. Tabaco’s popularity as regards furniture is shared by the towns of Santo Domingo, Guinobatan and Daraga.

It is said that in Albay, one can taste the hottest “pinangat”, folded yam (gabi) leaves into several layers within which are bits of pork or shrimp, shredded coconut, plenty of chopped red chili, and cooked in coconut milk and ginger. The popular reference to this dish, “bicol express” is said to have originated in the province. Today, however, anything cooked with plenty of red chili, be the dish, based in vegetable, fish or meat, is called “bicol express”.

As of this time, Mt. Mayon is observed to be emitting smoke and shows indication of imminent eruption, that is why, the villagers at its foot and slopes have already been warned. The same warning is also given to trekkers. As in the past, during its latest eruption, the volcano is closely watched by those who would like to gawk at its cone spewing fiery lava, a magnificent scene to behold at nighttime.