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The Mummies of Kabayan

Posted on Tuesday, 12 August 2014



The Mummies of Kabayan
By Apolinario Villalobos

Mummification as a process to preserve the dead is not practiced exclusively by the Egyptians. Early settlers of many countries also used it as found out by archaeologists of the modern times. Among these countries is Philippines.

Before the arrival of the Spaniards in 1521, there lived in Kabayan,a group of people, called Ibaloi, who were  believed to be among the second wave of Malays who from migrated from Southwest Pacific Islands.  They were believed to have sailed through Indonesia and Borneo, until finally, settling on the coastal shores of Pangasinan.

They proceeded north, following the course of the Agno River. Upon reaching the highlands of Benguet, they settled in valley of which they named Baloi. As the story goes, an epidemic broke out in their settlement, that spared several families, the seven of which continued their trek northward, while the rest retraced their steps back to Pangasinan.

The seven families that went north found a valley rich in wild animals and wild edible roots. They decided to stay and named the valley Embossi. The settlement is now what is bounded by the villages of Kabayan, such as Gusaran, Pacso and Asokong. One time, the hunters of the group encountered kinky-haired and black pygmies who also roamed the forest for games. They called the pygmies, “Ansisit” (small people) to distinguish them from themselves who were referred as  “Adagut” (tall people).

The new settlers put to practice their knowledge in agriculture by making rice terraces along the borders of the settlement. Not long after, they also came in contact with the Kalangaya Tribe which had preceded them, and who settled at Ahin and Tinoc, which are now parts of the Ifugao Province. Intermarriages caused the split of the Ibaloi tribe into two groups: the first claiming ancestry from the Embossi and the second from Tinoc. For clearer distinction, the Ibaloys were referred to as “Ipaway” (people of the plain), while the Kalangayan as “Ikalahan” (people of the jungle or mountains).

In time, members of the Ipaway group settled in Kabayan, Lutab, Digew, Daclan, Bokod, Itogon, Tuba, Sablan, La Trinidad, Tublay, Atok and some areas along the Cordillera mountain ranges. The Ikalahan on the other hand, settled in other areas of the mountain ranges, particularly in Tawangan, Amlimay, Lusod, and also, Kabayan.

Among the traditions of the Ibaloi, the most significant was the mummification of their dead, which old folks of the tribe would relate to the younger ones, as if telling them a legend while pointing to the direction of the Singakalsa Mountain. The said mountain, rising to 7,000 feet above sea level, was and still is the favorite hunting ground of the tribe. They would refer to the mountain as the repository of their “meking” or dried corpse. In 1908, two hunters, Magno Duna and Berong Sakunat of Lutab, Kabayan Cetral, chanced upon a cave, the entrance of which were hidden by bushes, where they found crudely- made wooden coffins that contained well-preserved corpses, practically, dried.

Another story is about the discovery of a burial cave due to the sound of “kalsa” (gong), that a hunter heard while tracing the footprints of a deer. At first, he thought that the sound came from a village down the valley, but when it became louder, he found the source to overhead, from a cliff. The hunter and his companion went up the cliff and searched for the gong.  They found it hanging by the branch of a pine tree that seemed to mark the entrance to a cave. Inside the cave, the hunters found four coffins, containing nine well-preserved remains, one of which was that of a baby. When the hunters took another way in coming down from the cliff, they discovered another cave where they found a lone mummy, but not yet placed inside a coffin.

When stories about the discovery of the mummies spread in the villages of Kabayan, the old folks understood why the mountain was called “Singakalsa”. The name could have been referred to the sound of gongs that they would hear during windy days. The stories of discoveries were soon forgotten, as no member of the tribe ever tried to make an attempt to re-visit them.

The late ‘70s saw the spate of discoveries of burial caves in the Cordilleras. Among these were the Opdas burial cave which was said to be used by a family during the late part of the 15th century. It was discovered in 1972 by Baban Berong, an Ibaloi. Other burial sites are the Kanga, located on the mountain slope of Sadan, Tenongchol, the entrance of which was carved on top of a solid rock, Timbak, Naapay and Bangao.

There was a rash of tomb raids to steal mummies, some of which were brought out of the country. The most celebrated stolen mummy was that of Apo Annu, a tribal leader of Benguet. His remains were stolen from a burial cave in Natubling, Benguet between 1918 and 1920 by a Christian pastor, according to a story, and ended up as a special feature of circus shows in Manila. Ownership of the remains changed hands several times, until the antique collector who last held on to it, made a decision to donate it to the National Museum in 1984.

During my visit to Kabayan, I found some mummies encased in glass for protection and in the custody of the municipal government. Much care was observed when they were brought out of their protective glass encasement.

The returned stolen mummies have been returned to their respective burial caves and the local government deemed it necessary to keep their locations a secret for fear that looting may again ensue. The burial caves of the Kabayan mummies have been officially declared as National Cultural Treasures by virtue of Presidential Decree No. 374. They have also been officially declared as endangered sites by the UNESCO.



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