Cagayan: A Valley of Green

And A Little of Anything

By Apolinario Villalobos

Historically, as in other parts of the archipelago, the Spanish friars who were considered as harbingers of western culture to the orient lifted the first page of Cagayan Valley’s rich past. Father Francisco Rojano, the great chronicler of the province wrote that the Cagayan province got its name from the Ilocano word “carayan” (big river), referring to the Rio Grande de Cagayan, considered as the biggest in the country and which bisects  the entire valley from north to south. Contrary, however, to what Fr. Rojano documented, historians who came later, claimed that the name was derived from “tagay”, a kind of plant that abundantly grew in the river’s northern portion. At first, it was referred to as “catagayan” (a place where “tagay” abounds), and later on, shortened to Cagayan.

According to Spanish-written chronicles, it was Don Juan de Salcedo, grandson of Legaspi who, after leaving Vigan and tracing the coastline of northern Luzon, became the first European to set foot on the area, particularly, Massi, Tular and Aparri. Cagayan’s rich past impregnated with Spanish influence saw the ups and downs of administrations which most of the time were dominated by the Spanish friars whose exerted efforts were geared towards the uplift of the lives of the natives, both socially and spiritually. The Spanish occupation of the province left a very strong impression in every locality as seen in massive churches that the friars caused to be built.

With the exit of the Spaniards after the three centuries of occupation, the Americans took over as provided for in the Treaty of Paris signed in 1898 as a result of the “war” between the two powers. The legacy left by the Spaniards was enhanced by the Americans that came out in many forms, foremost of which were in education, agriculture, and infrastructure. The period saw the construction of roads and bridges that reduced the vast valley into a compact province.

The WWII brought the American regime to an end, for not long after, the Japanese occupied the area. It was during this period that the famous Governor Marcelo Adduru caught the limelight for having offered a stubborn resistance to the occupying Japanese forces. Tuao on the southwestern part of the province, became the “Bataan of the Valley”. It was here where Adduru established his resistance government.

The 900,267 hectares of land is bounded by Balintang Channel on the north, the Pacific Ocean on the east and the Cordillera mountain range on the west. The province is part of the country’s granary, with its rich soil that nurture rice, corn, tobacco, coconut and vegetables.

The province is practically pockmarked with natural wonders, outstanding among which is the Callao Cave and its surrounding areas. The seven-chambered cave has a chapel. The lush surrounding area is throbbing with birdlife. Approaching the cave by the tranquil river, one could not help but notice an extraordinary phenomenon which the locals call “maroran” (a place of continues rain). It is believed that the spray of water came from the subterranean river that run along the elevated bank and found their way through small holes of the rocks and roots of creepers, ferns and vines that thickly cover the area. Callao Cave is part of Peῆablanca and is about thirty minutes from Tuguegarao, the capital of the province.

Gattaran, a town which is a little more than sixty kilometers from Aparri prides in its waterfalls – the Tanlagan and Stimson, aside from its Mapaso Hot Spring.

Fifty kilometers away from Tuguegarao is the town of Tuao where the rich Spanish heritage is deeply imbibed and clearly manifested in the ways of the people. Famed for its folk dances, it also boasts of “inalupapa”, a cake which is reputed to be the longest in Asia. Here, almost every family has an antique image of a saint, an indication of the locals’ fervent practice of Catholicism. As mentioned earlier, the town’s historical significance is highlighted when Governor Marcelo Adduru made it his last stronghold against the Japanese during the WWII.

Piat, a pilgrim’s haven in the southwest is frequented by devotees for its miraculous patron saint, the Lady of Piat, popularly referred to as “ Nuestra Seῆora de Visitacion”. Brought to this area by Father Diego Piῆeo from Macao, way back in 1600, the conversion into Christianity of the war-like Itawes is attributed to her.

At the foot of the legendary Sierra Madre Mountain, Baggao which bustles with activities despite its distance from any of the two commercial centers of the provinve, claims jurisdiction over a captivating hot spring and “seven steps” to Gimuno.

Historically known as Nueva Segovia is La-lo, which for a time had been the seat of the Philippine diocese during the Spanish period. It is also one of the main sources of the province’s food commodities. It is famous for its white cheese which is always part of the “pasalubong” that visitors bring home. Its natural allure is Nalbuan Lake.

On the northwestern tip of the province, a couple of rocks jutting out from the sea fascinate visitors. Called by the local folks as Punta Lakay-Lakay, these rocks are believed by fishermen to have power over the sea and the wind around the area. They would offer gifts in the form of money or anything from their household just so their trip would be fruitful. From its vantage promontory, one can have a commanding view of the treacherous Babuyan Channel and nearby islets. The horizontal northern shoreline of the province is dotted with beautiful beaches and inlets. And the most popular among these is the Mananga Beach in Pamplona.

Fuga, a white islet which is known for its coral reefs is a veritable dive spot.

For cockfighting aficionados, there’s the coastal town of Ballesteros to visit. Formerly known as Santa Cruz of Baculug, the town is considered as the province’s breeding center for ferocious game cocks. Aside from the cocks, the locals are proud of their beaches varying from fine white sands to jet black sands that are also strewn with shells. The rest of the province’s pride, are the Massit and Labbeng beaches of Sanchez Mira, aside from its majestic Daniga Falls.

Cagayan is peopled by Ibanags, Itawes, Malauegs and Ilocanos, but the widely spoken dialects are Itawes and Ilocano. Both Itawes and Ibanag dialects have traces of Spanish influence. In some affluent homes, Spanish is still spoken.

The premier city of the province, Tuguegarao is taking a fast pace as regards development, thanks to tourism. Cagayan is a packaged destination, what with its century-old churches, beaches, dive spots, mountain ranges, waterfalls, handicrafts, cultural heritage and birdlife. Northbound tourists can either make their first stop-over in the province or make it the last in their itinerary that may include trips to Vigan, Laoag and Pagudpud.