South Cotabato: A Colorful Blend of Cultures
Posted on Sunday, 13 July 2014
South
Cotabato: A Colorful Blend of Cultures
by Apolinario Villalobos
The dazzling colors of the blended cultures
of South Cotabato can be seen in the fabrics woven by the T’bolis, B’laans,
Manubos and other ethnic groups. The fertile 7,469 square kilometers of land
covered by the province is separated from neighboring provinces by a great
chain of mountain ranges that roll down to the seemingly endless coast
embracing the Celebes Sea. The major cities of the province are General Santos
and Koronadal. The airport is located in Tambler, General Santos, while
the short strip of runway for small inter-island aircraft located at Surallah
has been closed for commercial flights. This is the only province of the
country that retained almost 90% of the native references to barangays and
towns. Some of these are, Mindupok, Lebe, Pangi, Kling, Katabau, Hudan, and
Turguis. As one goes around the province, he will encounter more exotic
sounding names.
The prime city of the province, General
Santos is accessible on flights from Manila and Cebu, as well as ships and roro
ferries that dock at Makar, purported to be the biggest wharf of the country,
albeit, underutilized. The main produce here, are the tuna and deep-sea fishes,
and of course, pineapple. During the time that the province had limited cargo
flights, the marine products which are blast-frozen were packed in coffin-like
corrugated boxes and transported to Davao by cargo trucks, for airfreighting to
Manila. Those who are fond of marine food will surely enjoy their stay, as
right at the public market and some corners of the fish port, stalls sell them
grilled and at ridiculously low prices.
A dream come true is what General Santos
City could be aptly called. The city grew from a once arid land, desert-like, that
seemed unfit for a comfortable life. Cogon grass that swayed to the sea breeze
consisted its vegetation, accentuated by sparsely distributed “enyam” trees.
Based on historical notes, the development of the informal settlement wasteland
which was opened to the have-nots of Luzon and Visayas was funded with
Php20,000,000.00. At the helm of the project was the retired General Paulino
Santos, called from his retreat by the late President Manuel L. Quezon. In no
time, the “wasteland settlement” developed so fast, that more hordes of
migrants from Luzon and Visayas filled ships bound for the yet, undeveloped
port to overflow, and who scrambled throughout the plains upon arrival, to lay
claim to precious parcels of land. Even the desert-like coastal areas were not
spared.
In 1969, there was a move by a group of
Muslim groups to name the highly developed settlement Rajah Buayan City,
through a plebiscite. Unfortunately, the good intention was overpowered by the
bloated population of migrants. The other proposal to name it General Santos
City in honor of the late General Paulino Santos won. Finally, by virtue of the
Republic Act 5412, the bill of which was authored by the then, South Cotabato
Congressman James L. Chiongbian, General Santos City was finally created on
September 5, 1968.
Less than an hour from the city is
Polomolok, where thousands of hectares of rolling hills and plains are planted
to pineapple by Dolefil, one of the country’s exporter of this particular
produce – fresh and canned. In addition, the company has added orchards of
fruits and vast plots of exportable salad vegetables. Dolefil is the sister
company of Dole Banana which concentrates in producing exportable bananas. From
the company’s club house at Kalsangi, a fascinating view of the Mt. Matutum
(7,600 feet above sea level) can be had. This is also a good starting point for
a Mt. Matutum climb. When I visited the city years ago, two inland resorts,
Dasera and Olaer were the popular weekend recluse of the city dwellers as well
as those from neighboring towns.
For the more adventurous, a trip can be
made to Lake Sebu, a town nestled on a more than a thousand feet above sea
level elevation that makes it cool throughout the year. Manda Elizalde whose
objectives have been questioned when he explored the T’boli land, opened the
gates of this once reclusive Filipinos to the lowlanders. A little later, the
Sta. Cruz Mission followed suit, but with a different intent, that of spiritual
uplift of these highlanders. A mission school, Notre Dame was later opened and
with the former Imelda Marcos’ use of the tribe as a showcase for her cultural
projects… the rest was history.
Lake Sebu, the biggest mountain lake of
South Cotabato, serves as the focal point of town. The other two lakes are
Lahit and Siloton. A trip to the hills can bring one to waterfalls and forests
still alive with bird calls.
For those who want to see the colorful
attire of the T’bolis, not just worn as a costume during special occasions and
parades, but as daily garment, a visit to this town is a must. The woven fabric
called t’nalak is made of abaca fibers dyed with roots, barks and leaves of
indigenous trees and patiently pounded into softness. The natives’ attire is
made more colorful by the beads which are considered as family heirlooms and
treasure, just like the t’nalak garments, some of which have been handed down
from generation to generation. To reach Lake Sebu, a van or jeepney can be
contracted all the way from General Santos or from Koronadal, as well as, from
Isulan and Tacurong City. A whole day is suggested for a tour itinerary , that
should include Dolefil, Koronadal and Lake Sebu, and using General Santos as a
jump off point.
Despite some financial limitations, South
Cotabato is exerting much effort to be at par with the rest of the provinces of
Mindanao as regards commerce and tourism. One world-renown son of South
Cotabato, particularly, of General Santos, is Manny Pacquiao, the “national
knuckle” or “pambansang kamao”, although his political portfolio as congressman
carries Sarangani, which is actually the home province of his wife, where they
have conjugal properties.
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